Review: A.D. Rattray Caroni Rum

Our friend Lance Surujbally of Liquorature signs on with us to review a rum from the A.D. Rattray Cask Collection.  Tune in to see what he has to say.

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Picture 267A.D. Rattray Cask Collection 13
by Lance Surujbally

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Why the bottle of A.D. Rattray Cask Collection 13 year old Caroni rum (bottle 128 of 290) states it is “made exclusively for Co-Op” (a grocery chain) on the label is a mystery to me. This is especially the case since I have been able to find it on sale in at least two other countries, and the labels on neither have any such mention.  I can only conclude that this is a distribution issue, not a matter of commissioning or purchasing some kind of exclusive bottling (which both other merchants in Calgary —  the Kensington Wine Market and Willow Park – indulge in).

The selling point of a rum like this one is never just the rum itself, but exclusivity and rarity.  Like the Appleton 30 (1440 bottles) and the English Harbour 1981 (5774), this is an extremely limited edition of 290 bottles, emerging from a single cask.  As if this were not enough, it’s 13 years old and un-chill filtered, as well as having no additives at all – just like the two Cadenhead offerings I’ve tried – and these last two points are the Caroni’s great strength and also (to some) a weakness. Fortunately, and curiously, the price of the rum when I bought it was in the forty dollar range, which seems low ….either it isn’t that exclusive, not that good, or someone is testing the water to see if the price point can be supported for premium limited-edition rums as they are by whiskies.

The name of the rum comes from the Caroni (1975) Ltd sugar company of Trinidad and Tobago, which was established in 1887 and taken over by the government of T&T when it acquired Tate & Lyle’s shareholdings in 1970 (51%) and 1975 (49%) – it went under because it consistently lost money and no buyers could be found, in 2004. This may well be some of their last stock still available commercially as a bottled product so even if the rum is not to your liking, it’s possible that as an investment…well, it’s up to you.

adrattrayThe rum itself was attractively packaged in a black cardboard tin, in which a slim bottle of light amber fitted tightly. Tin foil wrapped around a well-seated cork.  It’s a thing of mine that I enjoy the voluptuous sound of a cork popping gently out, so points there. At 46% ABV, I’m was not expecting a gentle nose that tenderly massaged my snoot and beckoned invitingly with soft, caramel-scented breath, and I didn’t get one – but it was not as sharp and medicinal as I feared either.  In point of fact, it was, in spite of its lack of “post processing”, rather good.  Distinct, and clear, separating early into notes of vanilla, nuts and burnt sugar, with the muskier molasses scent underlying everything. And yes, a claw or two to remind you of its slightly higher alcohol content.

I don’t know how many people reading this have ever seen a sugar cane field burn in the tropics at harvest time, and can speak of the experience (I’m one of them): there’s a kind of deep smell of burning brown sugar that permeates the whole area, and lingers in your nose for days. I’ve always liked it when handled well within a rum’s bouquet, perhaps because of the memories it evokes of my boyhood. After leaving the Caroni to open for a few minutes, that lovely aroma stole around and about the other scents, which gradually became identifiable as faint hints of citrus fruit and notes of cherries, not so ripe as to be cloying…just young enough to impart some sting. I could have gone on smelling that for a lot longer than I did.

The body of the Caroni turned out to be sharper than I personally preferred, and lighter, clearer: definitely a medium bodied rum, hot and spicy on the palate, and a bit dry. This mostly likely comes from the additional spirit of the 46% I was sampling, as well as tannins from the thirteen years of ageing in the oak barrels, which was not mitigated. The lack of additives also played its part: that lack is a point of pride of the distiller, but I’m just not convinced it really works for rums, no matter how much it succeeds for whiskies (rummies like their libations sweeter, as a rule). On the other hand, by eschewing the chill filtering process, all the original oils, fatty acids, sugars, esters and phenols remain in the body, and this was what probably accounted for its somewhat richer taste.  Certainly, after the peppery spiciness faded, the sweetness (less than usual but still noticeable) came through more clearly, as well as banana, smoke, leather and – alas! – too much oak.

The fade is excellent, bar the same issue – the burn is deep and long, and that burnt sugar and caramel taste lingered, and spirit fumes wafted up the back of my throat and just…stayed there. The bitterness of the barrel was unfortunately part of what lingered also, so on that level the Caroni failed for me, but I’m perfectly prepared to accept that others will enjoy that aspect more than I did. As an aged rum, as a sipper, therefore, I must concede I like it above the more expensive offerings from Cadenhead; and as a mixer the Caroni is unique and superb (and the lower price makes it suitable for a better than average cocktail). Where I think it falls down is in the thinner body and lack of any attempts to mute the oaken taste, which fortunately is not so prevalent as to overpower everything else, just prevalent enough to make a good rum fall to the middling rank, instead of inhabiting a loftier plane in my esteem.

A.D.Rattray, a company established in 1868 by Andrew Dewar and William Rattray, was originally an importer of olive oil and European spirits, which branched out into blending and storage of malt and grain whiskies. Now owned and operated by Mr. Tim Morrison (formerly of Islay’s Morrison-Bowmore distillery, and a descendant of Mr. Dewar), its core mission is to make unusual, exclusive, limited edition whiskies from stock obtained from all the unique whisky producing regions of Scotland. The company would appear to be going with a trend now gathering steam – that of premium scotch makers branching out into other spirits, like rums. I’m all for innovation – I found the Renagade line of the Bruichladdich distillery intriguing essays in the craft, and for all my dislikes of the Cadenheads, I must concede they have tried to take rums in a different direction than the heretofore dominating “sweet and brown” philosophy – and I look forward to seeing what else comes out in the future from such out-of-the-box thinkers.

In summary, the price is reasonable, the colour, body and nose are lovely, and the taste is unique, if a bit harsh: if the rum fails at all, it’s in the decision not to mess with it – this has led to the prescence of oak maintaining an influence not all will appreciate.  Are other similarly aged rums better, tastier, smoother and more complex? Yes, absolutely. But I also think that the Caroni is one of a kind, a rum lover’s secret discovery – a sort of prime number of a rum, which is indivisible by anything other than you and itself.

Quite aside from its coming rarity and decent pricing, that’s enough of a reason to give it a shot.

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To read more from Lance, check out Liquorature.

Brugal Battle

The first-ever Brugal Battle Cocktail Competition was held in Philadelphia last week to the delight of a crowd of thirsty rum enthusiasts.  Get the results right here.

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The top bartenders from across the city of Philadelphia came together at Mad River Bar last week for a rum-centric cocktail competition held by Brugal Rum of the Dominican Republic.

The Brugal Battle was split into two rounds.  The first challenged participants to put a new spin on old classics (Mai Tai, Mojito or Hurricane) using Brugal Anejo Rum.  The second round gave bartenders a chance to get creative and build an original drink using Brugal.  All drinks were scored on presentation, palate and speed.

After nearly three hours of competition the judging panel tallied their scores, debated the results and awarded cash, prizes and bragging rights to the top three bartenders.

In the end, Colin Shearn of Franklin Mortgage and Investment Co. took home 3rd place.  Marc Yanga for Liberte at the Sofitel came in 2nd and Andres Sanchez of Positano Coast won 1st place.

Congratulations to the winners!

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Here’s a look at some of the action by Drink Philly.

More Havana Club Media

Havana Club Rum continues their “Nothing Compares to Havana” campaign with 4 more bizarre TV spots.  This batch may be even more interesting than the first.

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Tagline:  Nothing Compares to Havana
Ad agency:  M&C Saatchi GAD
Advertiser:  Pernod Ricard
Brand:  Havana Club

Havana Club is once again abandoning the “late night salsa club” theme that their commercials are known for.   The ad agency of M&C Saatchi pulls together unusual streetscape scenes for the latest HC television ads.  The four 20-second clips are subtle and even funny at times, but don’t scream “good times” like the majority of high-end liquor advertising.  This is surely a new approach.

Take a look and let us know what you think in the comments section.

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Buy the Barrel

Cruzan Rum hopes to educate consumers this Holiday season by offering retailers a chance to display an actual aging barrel from the distillery.  Get the details here.

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Cruzan Brings Holiday Cheer to Consumers

Deerfield, IL — For a limited time, retailers can participate in the “Buy the Barrel” program by purchasing 56 cases of Cruzan(R) Single Barrel (the equivalent of one barrel) and they will receive the actual barrel container from which the bottle contents were barreled and aged. The barrel will be customized with a gold name plate featuring the individual barrel number and a customized message for the retailer.

By displaying the actual barrel that the product was aged in, retailers can share with consumers the literal component of the Single Barrel distillation process that makes it unique. Cruzan Single Barrel, the flagship brand of Cruzan, is handcrafted by combining four to 12 year-aged rums into a single barrel for an additional aging process. The result of this proprietary technique is a medium-to-full-bodied, mellow flavor with a deep copper color, which makes Cruzan Single Barrel one of the most awarded rums in the world. Now retailers can bring part of that process directly from St. Croix to their customers.

Picture 166Additionally, now through January 31, 2011, Cruzan is offering consumers up to a $9 rebate on bottles of Cruzan(R) 9, 750mL or larger, purchased in participating states. Tasting events are being conducted, in conjunction with this offer, at top accounts in the participating regions where legal.

Cruzan 9, the brand’s first spiced rum with its unique blend of nine all natural spices, launched in 2010.

“Buy the Barrel” program is ongoing, but retailers are encouraged to purchase palettes of Single Barrel soon in order to display in time for the holiday rush and the Cruzan 9 rebate offer expires on January 31, 2011.

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For more information about Cruzan products, check out CruzanRum.com.

…..and for a delicious Cruzan Single Barrel laced drink try the Rum Connection Cocktail.

People Profile: Tatu Kaarlas

Tatu Kaarlas, our drinkin’ buddy and the brain behind Refined Vices.com, sits down with us to talk rum and good times.  Check out the full interview right here.

How and when did you become interested in rum?

Many years ago at my brother’s bachelor party when smoking indoors was still acceptable.

His friends and I had booked him a “cigar school” at a local cigar bar called Little Havana and this basic but educational session consisted of a cigar, three good port wines and a dram of 12 year old rum from Trinidad, Angostura 1824 as I recall.

Back then I was already a whiskey drinker but I had little experience with decent rums and even less knowledge about them. I had bad memories about Captain Morgan and I had read something about the world’s best rum being wrapped in royal palm leaves, but that was about it.

Having gone through the port wines it was time to have a sip of the 12 year old rum and to my amazement it was actually really good and not the horrific blasphemy I had wrongly assumed it would be.

Listening to the man talk about cigars and rum as we were smoking our Cuban cigars, I was convinced to find more good rum.

Eventually I made a decision to buy a bottle of Havana Club 7 for my brother’s wedding party as recommended by the man in Little Havana.

Since then I have been on a constant quest for finding new rums and rums I have never even heard about from the internet and from dusty old liquor shops in Europe and more recently, Australasia.

How many rums are in your collection?

It’s a sad story actually. When I left Finland I had to leave behind my entire rum and whiskey collection I had amassed over the years. Of course it is all safe and stashed in a dark corner, somewhere out of the reach of sunlight and sticky fingers.

I’ve started a new collection here in Australia, which now only consists of about 20 bottles. I am slowly acquiring more but alcohol here is expensive, even more so than it was in Finland so I can’t buy large quantities at once.

Doing what I do I also get the occasional bottle in mail, which helps in fighting off ‘the drys’ so to speak.

What is your favourite rum (or rums) in each category and why?

I’ve got a favourite rum for every mood and occasion and even then its usually not the same one.

Usually for my Mojitos I prefer Havana Club Añejo Blanco, for other cocktails that require a little more flavour I might use Mount Gay Eclipse, Appleton Estate V/X or gold rums from Havana Club.

On a hot evening and if I prefer a slight smack in the mouth I might go for Plantation Rum Jamaica 8 Year Old. Cruzan Single Barrel if I’m feeling for something simple but pleasant.

I’ve also got a bit of a thing for rums from Venezuela like Santa Teresa 1796, Cacique 500, Cacique Antiguo and Diplomático Reserva Exclusiva.

I have a love affair for Demerara rums such as El Dorado 15 and some of the Silver Seal Demerara rums. One of my newly discovered favourites is definitely the Black Tot Last Consignment.

I could go on but there are really too many rums to name!

Do you have a favourite rum bar?

My favourite rum bar of the extremely limited bars that do serve rum in Finland is Little Havana, a nice little place with Cuban atmospherics, though the place has suffered since the new smoking law.

In London we always gather up at Cotton’s in Camden, it has got a huge selection of rums, fantastic Jamaican style food and excellent cocktails. Trailer Happiness, Mahiki and Portobello Star are of course always on the books when in London.

In Australia one of my favourites is 1806, which has a nice selection of rums and some of the best cocktails I’ve had. I’ve been to Sydney once and there were some excellent bars and I would name them, but that trip was a bit of a blur if you know what I mean!

Australia has a lot more to offer in terms of rum, but I haven’t got around to visiting all the bars that I want yet.

What is your regular cocktail?

Mojito and Daiquiri are my benchmark cocktails whenever I go to a new bar and I always give a hard time to the bartenders about what goes into my Rum Old Fashioned.

At other times it can be Cuba Libre, Mai Tai or Zombie if I’m feeling adventurous. I stick to the classics and it’s usually rum based, though depending on the mood I might go for whiskey cocktails or a nice jug of sangria or something flammable like the Black Blazer in 1806.

Where is the best place to buy rum in your area?

Coincidentally when I first came to Australia I found a great place called Nick’s Wine Merchants on the same street I was living at and only a stone throw away. They stock a great amount of rum as well as whiskey and wine as the name suggests.

There is another one in St. Kilda called Acland Cellars if I remember correctly. They stock a lot of imported beer and have a nice selection of rum and occasionally stock some slightly rarer stuff that most places won’t have.

Which rum would you travel to buy?

If I could afford it, it would have to be a bottle of Black Tot Last Consignment or a bottle of Appleton Estate 30 year old and Appleton Estate Exclusive in Jamaica.

Perhaps some of the rare Caroni single barrel bottlings available only in the Italian rum market.

There are plenty of indie bottlings around that I would love to get my hands on and if I could find somewhere that stocks Blackbeard’s Reserve 24 Year Old, I’d be there in a flash.

If I were to go to these places it would be for the whole experience, not just for the rum.

When did you launch Refined Vices.com and what is your focus?

I started planning Refined Vices soon after my brother’s bachelor party when I had decided I needed to find more good rums. I was asking about them and looking for them on the internet, but a lot of the time I couldn’t find adequate information or pictures.

How would I know what type of bottle I’m looking for if I don’t know what it looks like?

That is when I got frustrated and decided there needed to be a solid source where you can find in depth information and good pictures of rum.

This is also the time when I started experimenting with product photography, which has now evolved to be somewhat of a hobby and the occasional source of money.

When I’m not drinking rum I’m hunting people who have ripped off my photos for their own commercial and non commercial websites.

In 2006 I had the basic concept ready and the website was already up, but officially I launched Refined Vices in August 2007.

Since then, Refined Vices has served as a source for people like us, consumers, bartenders and restaurants looking for new rums to try as well as being my own personal rum library and hobby.

Recently I’ve found myself doing a lot of consulting for different companies.

What should we watch out for from Refined Vices in the coming year?

I’ve got many plans and ideas for Refined Vices but for now I’m just going to keep you informed with upcoming events and publish more rum and whiskey reviews, interviews and articles with a few aces up the sleeve.

You should also expect to read more about Australian rum and whiskey, bars and events in Australia and hopefully about Australian distilleries.

Words of wisdom……

Let it never be said that one has an expensive or inexpensive taste, he merely knows the true worth of his satisfaction.

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Check out more from Tatu at Refined Vices.

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Eclipse Silver Review

Chip Dykstra, The Arctic Wolf, finds himself with a head full of adjectives and bottle of Mount Gay Eclipse Silver.  See what he thinks of this popular white rum.

Chip iconMount Gay Eclipse Silver  81.5/100
a review by Chip Dykstra (Aka Arctic Wolf)

History:

Barbados is situated as a gateway from the Atlantic Ocean to the Caribbean. For this reason, sailors from the Old World often used the island as their first stop on the way to the New World. This meant Barbados was ideally suited for trade between the two worlds in the seventeenth, the eighteenth and the nineteenth century.  From the beginning, part of that trade, as recorded in the earliest records, was rum.

The tradition of producing rum on Barbados dates to an early period in the seventeenth century.  Evidence exists of of small scale distillation as early as 1637, and the first recorded written usage of the word Rum Bullion appears on the island in 1651.  In fact this is the earliest recorded usage of the word Rum as it relates to the distilled spirit anywhere in the world.  As such, Barbados is generally considered the birthplace of rum.

Mount Gay Rum has been produced on Barbados since the beginning of the eighteenth century, making Mount Gay one of the oldest, (if not the oldest) rum brand in the world.  Evidence exists of stills in use at the Mount Gay Plantation site as early as 1667, and written confirmation of rum produced on the site in 1703.

Review: Mount Gay Eclipse Silver

In the Bottle 4/5

Mount Gay Silver Eclipse Rum has a new bottle design. Gone is the typical flagon style bottle which is in use by so many spirits companies. The new image for the Eclipse rum is a modern, slim, oval shaped bottle with a bold, eye catching label which properly reflects the heritage of Mount Gay Rum in a contemporary style.

I find the bottle and label design slick and attractive with bright colours and bold fonts which are are easy to read and eye catching. When I set the bottle in my rum cabinet, it stands out clearly against the other bottles inviting me to choose Mount Gay Eclipse rather than another rum.

Picture 141I so wish that the metal topper would have been scrapped in favour of a plastic threaded closure. I remain convinced that metal toppers do not work well in my climate. Perhaps in the south, where extremes of temperature and humidity are not as variable as where I live, those metal toppers work fine. But in my climate I am sure to have problems with evaporation after the bottle is opened.

In the Glass 8/10

The Eclipse Silver Rum is a clear spirit.  I held my glass up to the light and against various backgrounds trying to detect some colour but I found no trace of any at all. The tilted glass shows a light oily sheen which very slowly released stubborn crawling legs. A gentle inviting aroma begins to creep up from the glass.

It is unusual in my experience for a white rum to display such an inviting aroma in the glass. The scents and smells of light butterscotch were evident as was a firm presence of banana, a mild citrus zest, and a light minty aroma. As the glass decanted a vague grassy vegetal scent began to waft upwards as well. The vegetal tones grew stronger as the glass decanted and some might describe this as slightly medicinal.

My overall impression is that the rum appears to be crisp in the glass with a more complex nose than I was expecting.

In the Mouth 49/60

I began by sipping the Mount Gay Eclipse Silver neat in my glass without ice. The initial flavour was slightly acidic and perhaps a little harsher than I was expecting. I was perhaps beguiled by the inviting nose and was expecting more sweetness than I received. The caramel and butterscotch  flavours in the rum are soft. Flashes of vanilla flavour are present, but I catch no nutty flavours at all. In the mid palate  I taste soft ripe banana and citrus zests and these seem to be the dominant flavours. As well, I catch hints of a vague minty candy flavour.

I decided to build a few cocktails to see if I could discover the range of the rum’s mix-ability. I began with a simple rum and cola by adding a small splash of cola to my glass. Increasing the ratio of cola to rum slowly, I found that at a ratio of 1 part rum to 2 parts cola the mixture tasted nice, but throughout this cola mixing experiment the Silver Eclipse did not seem to excel. I think perhaps the sweetness of the cola was not where this particular rum wanted to find itself.

Next I made a simple daiquiri. Mixed with lime and simple syrup the Eclipse rum tasted much better (Very good!).  The rum flavour of the Eclipse seemed to push through the daiquiri and made it more impressive. I will have to experiment a little more, but I can say with confidence that this rum is a very good daiquiri rum.  I had a similar experience when I made a mojito, and my conclusion is that the Mount Gay Silver Eclipse Rum is particularly well suited to tropical citrus cocktails.

In the Throat 12/15

When sipped straight, the Silver Eclipse had an almost Tequila like feel in both the delivery and the exit. A spicy citrus is left in the mouth and a grassy vegetal trail is left in the throat. But when the rum is mixed in a citrus style cocktail such as a daiquiri, the sensation is much different. The finish of the cocktail is lengthened by the oily texture of the rum and the finish is long and nice.   Since the rum is a mixing rum I chose to put more weight on the finish displayed in the cocktail than in the finish displayed neat.

The Afterburn 8.5/10

I have never encountered a rum which displayed such duality. When sipped neat the rum displays many elements which I find underwhelming. But when mixed, in particular with citrus, the rum finds its legs and becomes much more impressive. Time will tell, but I feel this may become a favourite of mine as a cocktail rum.

Suggested Recipes

Picture 146Mount Gay Eclipse Silver lends itelf quite well to traditional cocktails such as Mojitos and Daiquiris.  Here’s another simple drink that it plays well with.

Rum and Tonic

Tonic water contains a substance called quinine which complements the piny notes of gin, and hence the famous Gin and Tonic is a very popular bar drink. I believe that the quinine in tonic water is also a nice complement to the grassy vegetal tones I detect in the Mount Gay Silver Eclipse.

1 1/2 oz Mount Gay Silver Eclipse Rum
1/2 oz Tonic Water
Ice
Slice of Lime quartered

In an old-fashioned glass place the lime cut into four quarters.
Fill the glass with crushed ice and add the Rum and Tonic.

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To read more of Chip’s work click here and here.

Diageo USVI Grand Opening

Diageo USVI announces the grand opening of its rum distillery in St. Croix.  It will become the main source for Captain Morgan Spiced Rum in the United States.

Company Announces $5 Million Investment in New Visitor Center

Diageo USVI, the Virgin Islands’ newest rum distiller, today announced the grand opening of its rum distillery in St. Croix that will produce rum for the Captain Morgan brand in the United States.  Governor John P. deJongh, Jr. and Lieutenant Governor Gregory R. Francis spoke at the milestone ceremony, along with Paul Walsh, CEO of Diageo plc and David Gosnell, President Global Supply and Global Procurement, Diageo plc.  At the event, Diageo USVI also announced that it will invest $5 million to build a visitor center at the distillery which is located at the Renaissance Park development on St. Croix.

Remarking on the completion of the distillery, Governor deJongh said, “Just two years ago, Diageo and the US Virgin Islands entered into a landmark agreement which proved to be a true public-private partnership and helped us to reinvigorate and reinvest in our rum industries. Through this agreement Diageo has also invested in improving the local environment and also contributed to our local community organizations.  We are extremely pleased to have Diageo as a partner, not only in the development of this state-of-the-art facility, but also in the development of our shared community.”

US Virgin Islands Delegate to Congress, Donna Christensen, who was not able to attend the event due to her obligations in Washington, DC, added, “Today’s grand opening event is a reminder of how Diageo has delivered on its promises, and underscores the strength of our mutually beneficial relationship.  I am confident this is the first day in the next chapter of the ongoing and productive partnership between Diageo and the people of the US Virgin Islands.”

Picture 126At the ceremony Mr. Walsh announced that Diageo will construct the first ever Captain Morgan visitor center onsite, adjacent to the distillery.  The center is slated for completion just in time for the distillery’s first rum shipment in early 2012.

Walsh said, “I am delighted to be here to mark the grand opening of this magnificent facility. It is difficult to overstate the strategic importance of the partnership we have made with the USVI, and what it will mean for the future success of Captain Morgan. The imagination and positive intent demonstrated by Governor deJongh and his colleagues to make this happen have been exemplary, and I want to recognize that. Diageo is committed to being a long-term member of the USVI community. As a symbol of that commitment I am pleased that we are in a position to contribute further to the local economy in the commission of a state of the art visitor center for Captain Morgan, an attraction which will augment one of its strongest industries: tourism. The distillery and its visitor center are a reminder of the flourishing relationship between Diageo and the US Virgin Islands, as we work together to usher the territory into a new and exciting era.”

To mark the official grand opening of the distillery, Captain Morgan and the Morganettes conducted a ribbon cutting ceremony at the site.  Additionally, Governor deJongh and Mr. Walsh signed several rum barrels to further commemorate the opening. Three time capsules were also buried on the distillery site, and will be opened ten, twenty, and thirty years from today.  Additionally, a documentary on the USVI distillery construction project was presented at the ceremony.  The film, directed by award-winning filmmaker and St. Croix native, Johanna Bermudez-Ruiz, offers a detailed look into both the challenges faced and the milestones achieved during the process.

“Today’s event commences what will be decades of rum making at this very site,” said Mr. Gosnell. “This is an important milestone for Diageo USVI, for the US Virgin Islands, and for the people of St. Croix. We want to remain an integral member of the St. Croix community. On behalf of Diageo USVI, we are filled with gratitude for the warm welcome shown to us by the people of St. Croix.”

Construction of the 20 million proof gallon rum distillery began in August 2009, and was completed on time and on budget, with a laudable safety record.  The distillery will generate an estimated $130 million in new tax revenue for the Virgin Islands Government, in addition to the $139 million that the construction has already brought to the community. Diageo USVI has committed that at least 80 percent of the full-time employees at the distillery will be from the USVI, and the company has created more than 60 full-time jobs to support the operation and management of the distillery.

The distillery was constructed with Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certification principles. Some of the 21st century ecological and environmental controls incorporated in the design include a closed-loop water system that will eliminate the need for any washwater disposal into the nearby Caribbean Sea. The design also incorporates organic solids reclamation and storm water best management practices.

The Results Are In

The Caribbean Alcohol Beverage Tasting Competition was held last week during the first annual Rum & Beer Festival in Barbados.  The winners are….

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The 2010 Caribbean Alcohol Beverage (CAB) Award Results

White Rum
GOLD –  Allen Alleyne White (R.L. Seale, Barbados)
SILVER –  Elements 8 White (St. Lucia Distillers)
BRONZE –  Appleton White (Appleton Estate, Jamaica)

Overproof Rum
GOLD –  Jack Iron Overproof (Westerhall Estate, Grenada)
SILVER –  Rum Bar Overproof (Worthy Estate, Jamaica)
BRONZE –  Den Ross Strong Rum (St. Lucia Distillers)

Spiced Rum
GOLD –  Chairmans Reserve Spiced Rum (St. Lucia Distillers)
SILVER –  Kweyol Spiced Rum (St. Lucia Distillers)

Gold Rum
GOLD –  Allen Alleyne Brown (R.L. Seale, Barbados)
SILVER –  Toz Gold (St. Lucia Distillers)
BRONZE –  Plantation Brown Rum (Westerhall Estate, Grenada)

Aged Rum (5–9 years)
GOLD –  Doorly’s XO (R.L. Seale, Barbados)
SILVER –  VXO Rum 7 year (Demerara Distillers, Guyana)
BRONZE –  Admiral Rodney (St. Lucia Distillers)

Aged Rum (10–14 years)
GOLD –  El Dorado 12 year (Demerara Distillers, Guyana)
SILVER –  Westerhall Vintage (Westerhall Estate, Grenada)
BRONZE  – Mount Gay XO (Barbados)

Caribbean Rum Festival

Less than a week from now rum aficionados will meet in Barbados for the first annual Caribbean Rum & Beer Festival.  Get the details right here.

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Festival

Sugarcane Initiative

Bacardi showcases their green facility in Puerto Rico during the annual Sugarcane Initiative Conference.  Sustainability was the main topic of the meeting.

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CATAÑO, Puerto Rico – Bacardi welcomes leaders of the Better Sugarcane Initiative, a global multi-stakeholder non-profit initiative dedicated to reducing the environmental and social impacts of sugar cane production, as it plays host to the annual general meeting and conference November 9-11 at its facility in Cataño, Puerto Rico. Bacardi Corporation, home to the largest premium rum distillery in the world, plays host to members of the global production community who want long-term success in industries dependent on the international sugar trade.

“Bacardi is helping to develop a new standard for sugar cane production that will not only help to standardize working conditions, but also improve environmental performance.”

As part of its long-standing commitment to the environment and sustainable business practices and a founding member of the Better Sugarcane Initiative, Bacardi supports the organization’s goal to improve the social, environmental, and economic sustainability of sugarcane by promoting the use of a global metric standard, with the aim of continuously improving sugarcane production and downstream processing in order to contribute to a more sustainable future.

With the support and advocacy of Bacardi, the Better Sugarcane Initiative gained the membership in the AIM Progress group of companies, probably the most significant collection of end users in the soft drinks and confectionary fields in the world.

“Bacardi is very proud of the support is has given and continues to assist in the development of the Better Sugarcane Initiative for a sustainable future for sugar — and the world. We truly believe this initiative will form the basis of long-lasting improvements in the lives of the sugar cane growers and the industry as a whole,” said Dave Howson, Bacardi global procurement development director, who also gave the keynote speech. “Bacardi is helping to develop a new standard for sugar cane production that will not only help to standardize working conditions, but also improve environmental performance.”

Picture 82While many know Bacardi for great rums and cocktails, Bacardi also has been a leader in corporate responsibility and environmental progress. The emphasis on sustainability is now commonplace at Bacardi and other global food and beverage companies, especially in the sugarcane sector where energy use, production efficiency, elimination of waste and the effect on global climate change are all being closely monitored.

“We spend hundreds of millions of dollars sourcing ingredients and raw materials to create our finished products and build our iconic brands. As we expand our business, it is more important than ever that we source responsibly — in keeping with our Company values and in a way that protects the integrity of our brands,” said Eduardo Vallado, manufacturing director for Bacardi in the Americas region, who gave the welcome address.

Sugarcane is used as a table sugar, but also in the production of foods, sweetened beverages, livestock feed, molasses and rum. More recently, sugar cane is being used in the production of biofuels to meet increasing energy needs.

“With the benefit of its own extensive marketing experience Bacardi is playing a pivotal role in helping to define the Better Sugarcane Initiative’s approach to claims and labeling. The most critical thing we are trying to achieve is a global reduction in the impact of the production of sugarcane. We have developed a standard which can measure actual progress in this regard with a very sophisticated but at the same time simple metric set of indicators. They are easy to measure and ideal for comparisons,” said David Willers, general manager, Better Sugarcane Initiative Ltd. “Responsible consumers and producers expect that all agricultural and industrial enterprises need to operate not just economically, but also in a way that promotes social and environmental improvements.”

The 127-acre Bacardi facility is the largest premium rum facility in the world supplying various premium BACARDI products to North America, Europe and other parts of the world. It is also the second most visited tourism venue in metro San Juan, drawing more than 250,000 visitors a year to learn about the rich history of the Bacardi family and brand, as well as its unique production.

The environmentally-conscience Bacardi facility also is home to the largest wind turbine installation in Puerto Rico designed to harness natural wind energy to help power the global distillery. The two wind turbines generate approximately 1,000,000 kWh of electricity per year accounting for three to seven percent of the power used by Bacardi, roughly the consumption of the facilities tourism-related activities at its Casa Bacardi Visitor Center (and equivalent to the consumption of about 100 average households) with an expected carbon offset of more than 900 tons of CO2 per year.

Also at its facility in Puerto Rico, Bacardi was one of the pioneers in anaerobic treatment of distillery wastewater and has patented a system that is now used by other companies around the world. Other environmental initiatives at the Bacardi facility in Puerto Rico include recycling old ageing barrels by dismantling and chopping them and giving the barrel chips to employees as mulch for their gardens and for facility landscaping. As a novel idea to re-purpose large plastic promotional banners, Bacardi cuts and sews old banners into reusable shopping bags for employees.

Globally, Bacardi was certified in December 2009 to be operating in accordance with the world’s most recognized standards for quality, environment, and health and safety. Bacardi is the only major spirits company to achieve certification under ISO 9001, ISO 14001 and OHSAS 18001 for all its production facilities globally, putting the company among an elite group of the world’s best-run companies.

Cubaney 25 Review

The Arctic Wolf scores a rare bottle of Cubaney Ron Tesero Grand Reserve 25 from the Dominican Republic.  Check out his review of this exceptional rum.

Chip iconCubaney Ron Tesero Grand Reserve 25 Year Soleras Rum  96.5/100
A review by Chip Dykstra

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I have a friend in the Dominican Republic with a website called Rums of the Domincan Republic (Drums).  His name is Pavol Kažimir.  Pavol and I have exchanged emails a few times, and we met in Miami at Rum Renaissance where we seemed to hit it off with each other quite well. But, I was very surprised when he emailed me during the summer and asked me which bottle of Dominican Rum I would like to receive when his friend visited Edmonton. I stated a preference for something that maybe wasn’t available in my locale, and Pavol promptly arranged for Oliver and Oliver to provide me a sample bottle for review.

The bottle that was chosen surprised me all the more, the Cubaney Ron Tesero Grand Reserve, a solera blended style with aged rum as old as 25 years in the blend.  If you have not heard of Oliver and Oliver, I should explain that they are an independent bottler of rum operating in the Domincan Republic.  They buy barreled rum from major rum producers, and then age it using a solera aging system in the “Cuban” style.

I thank you Pavol for obtaining this sample for me, and lest I bore everyone, I  better get on with the review:

In the Bottle 4/5

Picture 43The Cubaney Ron Tesero Grand Reserve arrives in a tall, slender, flagon style bottle. The glass is clear allowing a nice view of the rich dark rum inside.  Protecting the bottle is a slender black rectangular box which will allow me to keep the spirit protected from the light as I slowly sip its contents over the next several weeks and months.  The plastic screw top which seals the bottle has me a little concerned. It has a flimsy feel to it and I am thinking the plastic diffuser may have to be replaced with a solid cork at some point on my shelf.

Overall I am pleased with the presentation, although perhaps it is a little understated considering the premium nature of the run inside.

I have trouble with the Spanish on the label but even I can see that the  label states the  Cubaney Ron Tesero is solera aged, and bottled at 38 % alcohol by volume.

In the Glass  9.5/10

The rum in the glass is a deep, rich, bronze color which carries the rich aroma of dark brown sugar and wonderful baking spices. A faint smoke is present which carries scents of dried fruits, raisins, and a soft and subtle cherry-like scent in the background.  A little wave of soft tobacco is mixed in, as is an ever present woody backdrop which seems to tie everything together. I even sense a smidgen of brine and tar in the breezes; almost, but not quite reminiscent of Islay peat.

This is a truly great nosing rum, and although I have used words like tobacco, tar, and woody, you will have to trust me that everything is meant in a most wonderful way.

In the Mouth 58.5/60

The rum carries a firm but soft sweetness forward as well as a nice spiciness that coats the tongue and the sides of the mouth from the first sip. I taste rich baking spices wrapped inside a deep dark brown leathery toffee and molasses. The smoke I noticed on the nose seems to be a sherry cask influence which provides a bevy of dry fruit with little packets of cherry flavour hidden within. Leather and tobacco underpins the flavour profile rising and falling with my mood, but without ever appearing bitter. I even taste that smidgen of tar and brine buried deep in the woody spices.

This reminds me of a really good scotch whisky, not in flavour but in approach. The underpinning elements of smoke, leather and tobacco appear to act in the same manner that light smoky peat does in whisky.  They carry the sweeter flavours forward and embrace them rather than trying to devour them.  I am impressed by the way that no particular flavour exists at the expense of another.  This is extremely complex, but very well balanced!

In the Throat 14.5/15

The strong complexity continues all the way through to the exit. My mouth is left with a sweet and spicy afterglow. My throat feels a very light burn and I can taste fleeting mirages of cocoa, dry fruit, and wisps of that brine tar.  There is absolutely no bitterness in the exit which amazes me given the flavour profile and age of the rum.  When sipping the rum neat at room temperature, the finish is absolutely divine.

The Afterburn 10/10

As a general rule, I avoid rums which carry excessive age, and strong notes of tobacco and wood. I find these rums have a tendency to go bitter in the finish and the oak takes more from the spirit than it gives. I was fearful that this rum would show too much oak in its delivery as the age of the rums in the blend seemed to me to be almost excessive.  But… my fear was entirely unwarranted. In the solera style, the blender seems to have captured just the right amount of old age to give the rum character and depth, and just enough younger rum to add enthusiasm and vigor.  Yet I taste no duality of style.  The rums have married and blended into a harmonious balance which is flavourful and complex with neither aspect being at the expense of the other.

This is a rich, decadent rum, full of character and it is amongst the best rums I have ever tasted.

Picture 48Suggested Recipe

My first suggestion is to enjoy Cubaney Ron Tesero Grand Reserve neat at room temperature in your favourite chair while reading a good book.  This rum is one of the two or three best tasting rums I have encountered thus far.  My only cocktail expression I allowed myself was a simple cocktail which I call  The Perfect Moment.

The Perfect Moment

2 oz Cubaney Ron Tersero
Slice of lime
Ice

Fill a rocks glass half full of ice. 
Spear a slice of lime with a long toothpick.  Place the lime into the ice. 
Pour the rum over top.
 Enjoy the Perfect Moment!!

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To read more from Chip click here and here.

Best Cocktail Bars

After traveling thousands of miles and consuming hundreds of cocktails, GQ Magazine names their choices for the top 25 cocktail bars in the United States.

GQ Names the 25 Best Cocktail Bars in America

NEW YORK, Sept. 22 — To compile and rank the nation’s best cocktail bars for the October issue, GQ traveled over 30,000 miles, visited twenty-one cities and 102 bars, and drank more than 400 cocktails, before finally selecting Seattle’s Zig Zag Cafe as the number one bar on the list.  At Zig Zag Cafe, “patrons come for the easy conversation and the drink-all-day coziness.  Above all, though, they come for the cocktails of Murray Stenson.  The man is effortlessly talented, a bartender superhero.  In fact, he may be the country’s best,” writes Kevin Sintumuang.  “Each drink Murray pours is a mini-revelation, an introduction to rare spirits and a bold use of common ones.”  Here is GQ’s complete list of the best cocktail bars in America:

1: Zig Zag Cafe – Seattle

2: Angel’s Share – New York

3: The Violet Hour – Chicago

4: Clover Club – Brooklyn

5: The Alembic – San Francisco

6: Death & Co – New York

7: PDT – New York

8: PX – Alexandria, VA

9: Comstock Saloon – San Francisco

10: Holeman & Finch – Atlanta

11: Tiki-ti – Los Angeles

12: The Patterson House – Nashville

13: Eastern Standard – Boston

14: Rickhouse – San Francisco

15: Anvil – Houston

16: Arnaud’s French 75 – New Orleans

17: Elixir – San Francisco

18: Columbia Room – Washington, D.C.

19: Cole’s – Los Angeles

20: The Whistler – Chicago

21: Drink – Boston

22: Pegu Club – New York

23: The Edison – Los Angeles

24: The Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co. – Philadelphia

25: Needle and Thread – Seattle

For drinking lessons learned, tips, and more information about each bar, pick up the October issue of GQ, available now on newsstands and on iTunes, or visit GQ.com.

SOURCE GQ

Return of Trader Vic’s

Following a 5 month renovation, Trader Vic’s in Emeryville, CA will be opening its doors to patrons and guests for dinner Tuesday, September 28th.

You’ll be impressed by many new additions to their food and drink menu.  Perhaps the most interesting is the Mai Tai Wave, a flight of Mai Tais featuring three flavors: Guava, Mango and Maui (Pineapple) all served to guests on a beautifully wood-carved surfboard.

For the first month following their reopening they will feature Trader Vic’s Mai Tais for $5. Below are new creations from their updated cocktail menu:

1944 Mai Tai (which is a Mai Tai from scratch)
Maui Mai Tai
Guava Mai Tai
Mango Mai Tai
The Wave (three of the flavor Mai Tais in one ride)
E’ville Awa (E’ville – Emeryville and “Awa” means “port” in Hawaiian)
Tears of the Tiki
Shanghai Lotus
Cosmo place

Curious about the remodel?  Here’s a sneak preview of the new digs.

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Music: Finley Quaye

Reggae at its best with a pinch of dub, folk and lounge thrown in for good measure.  Finley Quaye has been on our Sunday chillout soundtrack for quite some time.

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Every now and then an artist comes along that seems to stay on constant rotation on the Rum Connection iPod.  Finley Quaye is that kind of artist.  His music is truly genre-bending with a solid foundation in reggae, but influences that run the musical spectrum are evident.  Music critics constantly compare him to  Michael Franti, Bob Marley and John Lennon.  Not bad company to be in.

Here’s a bit from his website bio:

Finley Quaye got his first record deal with Polydor Records in 1994.  He began working with Epic in 1996 and in 1997 hit the UK top 20 twice with “Sunday Shining” and “Even After All”.  His debut album Maverick A Strike is a masterpiece capturing the sunshine vibe of primetime Marley but placing it firmly in the concrete of mid nineties bohemian Britain and making it pure pop.

Finley’s following two albums are even more musically satisfying and challenging and were released on Epic, Vanguard (2000) and Much More Than Much Love (2004).  ‘The Best Of The Epic Years’ was released on Sony/BMG during the summer of 2009. He lives in the United Kingdom and is currently working on a new album with a brand new band.

As you can see, Finley has been putting out great music since the mid 1990’s, but we discovered him while listening to the official soundtrack to Thicker Than Water, a surf movie directed by Jack Johnson.  Even After All, his contribution to that record, is one of those songs that you just put on repeat and listen to for an hour or so.  Here it is.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=214cQIpcCIc[/youtube]

Finley has recorded nearly 15 albums since his start in ’94 and they’re all packed with song after song of great music.  His Best Of album from his years recording at Epic has just been released and is a great start for anyone new to his music.  Pick it up at Amazon.  As you will discover, all of his records tend to mix well with a daiquiri, warm weather and the company of good friends.  Enjoy!

Get more of Finley Quaye here:

Finley Quaye-The Official Website
MySpace
Facebook

ED Single Barrel ICBU

Chip Dykstra signs in with a review of El Dorado Single Barrel ICBU.  This is part of the super-premium (and difficult to find) Connoisseur’s Range from ED.

Chip iconEl Dorado Single Barrel ICBU Rum
(Savalle Still) (86.5/100)
a review By Chip Dykstra (Aka Arctic Wolf)

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El Dorado has introduced a Single Barrel rum using only distillation and fermentation techniques of the Savalle Still (using the same traditional methods which have been employed for 250 years).  As the barrels from this still were originally marked with an ICBU marque to signify the rums from the Uitvlught Sugar Factory in Gayana, this rum is labeled El Dorado Single Barrel Demerara Rum ICBU.  It is part of the new Connoisseur’s Range from ED.

I consider this somewhat of an artisan offering which gives the rum aficionado a glimpse into the particular characteristics of demerara rum from a particular still, in this case the Savalle Still.  Rum from this particular still would normally be blended with product from other stills and from other barrel types to construct a quality Demerara blend.  The original distillation techniques of the Savalle Still produces a very particular flavour profile to the distillate, and this review will be a reflection of that particular flavour profile which the Savalle Still imparts.

In The Bottle  4 /5

Picture 27As you can see the bottle has an elegant tapered shape which is distinctive from the more familiar bottles in the El Dorado line up.  The wider shoulders and narrow bottom is a functional design making the bottle easier to grip and hold.  The bottle also has a nice little booklet attached to the neck which provides an interesting write up on the Uitvlught Sugar Factory and the Savalle Still.

In the Glass  9/10

The rum displays a rich oil which presents long legs down the inside of my glass.  A complex oak and tannin-filled scent rises from the spirit.  In the breezes with the woody tannin, I smell sweet dark brown sugar spices, and a firm citrus note that reminds me of orange and banana peel.  The overall impression is of richness and complexity.  In my previous review of the El Dorado Single Barrel PM, I noted a much more severe woodiness in the aroma. The ICBU offering appears to be much more approachable.

In the Mouth  52.5/60

The first thing I taste in the ICBU is the balance between the woody tannins and the sweeter molasses based flavours. My earlier review of the El Dorado Single Barrel PM noted that the PM offering was very intense with woody tannin flavours.  The ICBU is much gentler.  The oak is strong, but the sweetness of the brown sugar spices balances the sharpness of the oak and citrus zests.  There is no bitter aftertaste to spoil the experience.  As well, flavours of caramel, toffee, and vanilla all lie in moderation under the oak spice as does a slightly charred nuttiness, and flavours of toasted coconut.

In the Throat  12.5/15

Oak tannin and orange peel dominate the finish on the palate.  It may be a tad spicy,  but a touch of sweetness also lingers which tempers the experience.  In the empty glass are rich aromas of baking spices and brown sugars.  The smell is very luxurious, and I sense a bit of that rich luxury in the finish as well.

The Afterburn  8.5/10

It is fascinating to explore the taste profile which the distillation and fermentation techniques of the  Savalle Still  impart into the demerara rum profile.  Although I was sampling and tasting  for the purpose of this review, I have an impulse to purchase a bottle and make this a regular encounter. If you are curious and wish to experience an exploration of the demerara rum taste profile,  you will enjoy these new El Dorado Single Barrel Connoisseur offerings, particularly the ICBU.

Suggested Recipe

Although the El Dorado Single Barrel ICBU Rum is primarily meant as a connoisseur’s sipping rum; I could not resist the urge to explore at least one cocktail experience.  Since I have been using cranberry juice in my cocktails lately, I decided to do a variation of one of my earlier bar drinks, the Traveler Cocktail.   I call the new cocktail made with the El Dorado ICBU Single Barrel Rum, Savalle Row, which is probably a bad pun but a very good cocktail.

Savalle Row
a cocktail by Chip Dykstra (Aka Arctic Wolf)

Picture 311 1/2 oz El Dorado ICBU Single barrel Rum
3/4 oz Triple Sec
3/4 oz Lime juice
3/4 oz Cranberry juice
ice

One each, frozen Raspberry and frozen Blackberry for garnish

Shake all the ingredients over ice
Strain into a suitable glass
Garnish with the frozen fruit

Note: This cocktail is “Forrest Approved.”

And always remember, the aim is not to drink more, it is to drink better!

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To read more of Chip’s work click here and here.