St. Nicholas Abbey Rum tells their story with a beautifully produced video. Check it out.
Touring Depaz
The Martinique rum tour continues with a stop at one of the most well known distilleries on the island, Depaz.
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Our tour of Martinique distilleries started once again bright and early as we navigated the rum bus through the busy streets of Fort de France and then up the island’s picturesque west coast to St. Pierre. On the agenda was a look at Depaz, one of the most respected distilleries on the island and one of its most popular tourist attractions.
A bottle of Rhum Depaz can be difficult to find in the US, so when we arrived at their state of the art facility I had no idea what to expect. We were greeted by Eric Lecoeur, GM at the distillery, and our tour quickly began with a history lesson about the brand.
The beautiful Depaz Estate sits at the base of Martinique’s tallest mountain, Mount Pelee. The origins of the property date all the way back to 1650 when Martinique’s first govenor built the original chateau. It was later acquired by the Depaz family and a sugar manufacturing plant and distillery were constructed. In 1903 a devastating volcanic blast from Mount Pelee killed nearly everyone in the town of St. Pierre and leveled every structure including the estate. In 1917, Victor Depaz returned to Martinique to rebuild the chateau, distillery and the good name of the brand.
Blue Cane, which is known as the best, most flavorful variety of sugarcane, was planted on the property. The stubborn crop grew well in the fertile volcanic soil and distinct micro-climate of northwest Martinique. The quality of the rhum was quickly revered as among the best on the island and gained the Depaz brand a much deserved reputation once again.
Today, Depaz distills their signature brand of rhum agricole as well as a line for Dillon, another admired local brand. Blue Cane remains a big factor in their signature flavor profile and more than a thousand hectares of the specialty sugarcane is planted on Depaz land. It is harvested in the spring when its sugar content is highest, then crushed to extract the juice and allowed to ferment for 48 hours until the wash is roughly 6%abv.
The distillery is equipped with three column stills, two for the Depaz line of rhums and one exclusively for the Dillon brand. Once it is distilled, the rhum is aged in French oak barrels, blended and bottled on premises. Unfortunately, a fire in 1988 destroyed all of their aged rhum stock, but they have already assembled an impressive collection of nearly 5000 barrels that are resting in rebuilt aging warehouses.
Rhums by Depaz are very well known throughout the world and are widely available in Europe. Unfortunately, many of their high end offerings are only distributed in Martinique and France. They are definitely worth seeking out, so if you happen to see a bottle on the shelf of your local liquor shop, be sure to snatch it up. If you want to score one of their more interesting offerings, you’ll just have to pay them a visit in Martinique.
Cheers!
Antigua Distillery Ltd.
How about a tour of Antigua Distillery Limited and a visit to their tasting room for a sample of the English Harbour Rums. Come along.
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We pulled slowly into port at St. John’s, Antigua and waited anxiously for another great day of distillery touring and rum drinking. We all knew that this day would be special. We were about to tour Antigua Distillery Limited (ADL), makers of the famous English Harbour Rums and a place that the general public doesn’t normally have access to.
We load into a small, hot, overcrowded mini-bus and we all grumble as we roll slowly through the morning traffic. We anticipate a long, uncomfortable ride to the distillery, but we’re pleasantly surprised when we arrive at the front gate of an industrial site no more than 5 minutes later. The sign reads “Antigua Distillery Limited.” This is it!!
We’re met out front by Anthony Bento, Managing Director of ADL. He welcomes us and describes the interesting history of the facility. Like most islands in the Caribbean, Antigua once had a plethora of sugar plantations and each had their own brand of rum. Estate rum production decreased in the early 20th century and rum shops took over the tradition. In 1934 several of these shops joined forces and developed Antigua Distillery Limited.
Over the years, the new company acquired several estates and a sugar factory. Their own unique, high quality molasses gave their rum a distinct taste and their first official brand, Cavalier, was launched in the early 1950s. Cavalier remains a popular local label on the island, but today ADL is best known for their premium line of English Harbour Rums.
After donning hard hats and hair nets our tour of the distillery began. Following visits to several tourist-friendly sites, it was interesting to see how this one worked, a plant that is admittedly not prepared for tours. We walked single file on steel walkways through tight corridors and passageways to view the fermentation and distillation areas.
One of the more interesting aspects of the plant is their unusual column still. Because of height restrictions, it is stacked in segments, four sections wide, but operates the same as a traditional set up. It is a one-of-a kind piece and shows just a bit of the innovation of everyone involved in this distillery.
We made a brief pass through the rum lab where new blends are designed and current products are tested for quality control. We continued on to the bottling area which consists of a very simple and efficient line that was running full blast with just two employees manning the operation.
We finally congregated at an offsite tasting room where we had a chance to sample all three rums from the English Harbour line. The 5 and 10 year aged varieties are amazing, but the 1981 vintage blew everyone’s mind. At $225us, this is certainly a bottle of rum that belongs in the super-premium category, but our crew saw it as a worthy investment and bought nearly every bottle they had in stock.
English Harbour 5 Year has long been a favorite sipper at Rum Connection headquarters and it was a pleasure seeing where it is made. ADL is an extremely understated distillery. They are low on the usual tourist glitz and glam but heavy on what counts – consistently making wonderful rum.
Thanks to all of our new friends in beautiful Antigua. We will definitely be back to swim in your blue waters, mingle with your friendly people and, of course, drink more of your outstanding rum. Cheers!!
In Search of Barrilito – Pt. 2
Our tour continued back in one of the aging warehouses where we looked at barrels that dated back thirty, forty and sometimes even fifty years. We browsed the shelves and admired what was almost a museum of aged rum. It smelled wonderful.
Manuel gathered us around a fat barrel that sat confidently on the second level of the large wooden rack and asked us if we would like a sample. The date on this particular barrel was 1982 and we all shook our heads in agreement, we would absolutely love to try this 29 year old rum.
Two snifters appeared, a long cylindrical tube was inserted into the barrel and a healthy amount of rum was extracted and poured slowly into each glass. We each smelled the sweet aroma of this antique rum and then took a small sip – absoluetly wonderful. We agreed that they should bottle it, straight from the barrel, even if it was in small quantities.
As Tropical Storm Emily beat on the metal roof above, we sat there with our host, among the racks of aging barrels and enjoyed a 29 year old sample of Barrilito. A rum that few people have ever had the opportunity to try. It was one of the best drinking sessions I’ve ever been a part of.
Our time at Barrilito was drawing short when someone from our group asked Manuel about the Freedom Barrel. This is legend among the rum drinking community and either discussed with curiosity or skepticism. The lore is that a single barrel of Barrilito rum was filled by Fernando and Manuel’s father in 1942 and left to age until Puerto Rico gained independence. Upon that day, the barrel is to be brought to the town square of Bayamon and sampled by everyone who is there to celebrate.
I think our group was bit skeptical that such a barrel existed, but when asked, Manuel escorted us through a large metal doorway and into yet another aging room. This was where some of their oldest rum was resting. As we entered the room Manuel pointed to the very first barrel. It looked slightly different and more worn than the others with stains at every seam where the angels had surely gathered their share over the years. Tacked to the front was a piece of weathered paper. It read Nov 23, 1942. The Freedom Barrel exists! As for tasting it, well, we’ll have to wait for Puerto Rican independence.
We finally bid farewell to our new friends and braved the tropical weather outside. We came away with bellies full of good spirits, boxes of rum and tshirts, but more importantly, new knowledge and respect for the Barrilito brand and Fernandez family tradition of making rum. Thanks to the Fernandez brothers for a wonderful tour and a look into their very unique corner of Puerto Rican rum culture. Cheers, fellas!!
In Search of Ron de Barrilito – Pt. 1
One of our favorite Puerto Rican rum scene stops is in the little town of Bayamon at the aging and blending facility of Ron del Barrilito.
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Ron del Barrilito is a small brand, but one with a lot of history. The Fernandez family has owned the land where the facility is located for more than 200 years. In the early 1800’s it served as a sugar plantation and small amounts of rum were being produced there from the very beginning. Back then, rum was strictly made for their family and friends.
In 1827 a large windmill was constructed on the property to assist in crushing juice from sugar cane, but it wasn’t until nearly 1880 that the Fernandez family imported a European still and “officially” entered the rum business. Three generations of rum producing has passed and the brand is going strong, has been efficiently streamlined and focused on business.
Our hosts, Fernando and Manuel Fernandez, greet us through the heavy morning rain. We say our pleasantries and they tell us more about their unique production process. Today, all of their base rum is sourced from Bacardi and delivered to storage tanks at Barrilito in large tanker trucks. It is then transferred to wooden vats where it is blended with 10 secret ingredients, allowed to aerate and transferred to 130 gallon sherry barrels. Then it is allowed to rest in one of four large aging rooms for a minimum of two years.
Once the rum is aged properly it is blended precisely to either 2 Star or 3 Star specification and transferred to large stainless steel containers above their modest bottling line. Like most of the operation at Barrilito, the bottling and packaging area is very simple and efficient. A dated bottler and labeler are operated by a crew of two and the Fernandez brothers pitch in whenever necessary.
On the day of our visit, boxes of 2 Star rum were being filled for a shipment that was due to be picked up later in the day. The process was in strong contrast to some of the super-automated setups that we’ve seen, but we all agree that the human aspect of this line along with attention to detail could not be beat.
Tune in tomorrow for more details about our visit to Ron del Barrilito. Hint: we get a chance to taste vintage rum directly out of the cask and discover whether the Freedom Barrel really exists.
John Watling’s Rum Tour
The Buena Vista Estate and John Watling’s Distillery serve up craft rum in Downtown Nassau.
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John Watling’s Rum, the “Spirit of The Bahamas,” offers complimentary tours at its home, the Buena Vista Estate, in Downtown Nassau. The historic Estate, founded in 1789 and overlooking the harbour, is the site where Bahamians hand-craft John Watling’s small-batch Pale, Amber and Buena Vista rums. At the Estate, John Watling’s features a production and museum-like tour, shopping and signature Bahamian cocktails at its Red Turtle Tavern. Within walking distance from the cruise ship port, the Distillery is located on Delancy Street and is open from 10am-6pm, seven days a week.
The Tour:
The Distillery will be open to visitors daily and will feature complimentary tours showcasing the history and heritage of The Bahamas. The tour begins in the entrance lobby of the Buena Vista house and includes antiques and prints dating back more than 300 years. Photographic exhibits and displays have been provided by the descendants of the Buena Vista’s long list of residents, which includes Royal Governors, Chief Justices and Knights of the British Empire.
The tour then continues to the storehouse where guests get up close and see how the rums are bottled the old-fashioned way by local hands. It offers a unique multisensory experience where guests will see more than 1,000 ageing white oak barrels that fill the air with the aroma of fine rum.
JOHN WATLING’S rum:
More than 175 years of rum-making experience went into creating John Watling’s rum, as five founding members; Pepin and Leon Argamasilla, Jose and Mario Portuondo and Guillermo Garcia-Lay, of John Watling’s Distillery are also sixth generation members of a rum-producing family with more than a half century tie to The Bahamas.
John Watling’s is available as a two-year-old Pale, three-year-old Amber and a five-year-old named after the Buena Vista Estate. The rums are fermented and distilled from hand-cut, freshly pressed sugar cane molasses and all products made at John Watling’s Distillery are handcrafted and hand-packaged by Bahamian hands. The Distillery uses the least amount of mechanization possible without compromising on quality, and even the bottles are adorned with a section of Sisal Plait that is woven by hand in the Bahamian islands of South Andros and Cat Island.
The rums, which began selling this March, are currently only available on New Providence and a very few of the Family Islands, and have been thoroughly embraced by Bahamians and tourists alike; local stores and bars have sold out of the product on a weekly basis and more than 4,000 bottles have been sold.
What’s in a Name:
John Watling was known as the “pious pirate” who sailed the Bahamian seas. He was an English buccaneer from the 17th century who settled on San Salvador Island and named it after himself. He sailed with famous buccaneers such as William Dampier, Woodes Rogers and Bartholomew Sharpe. In 1925 when it was finally determined this was also the island of Columbus’ landing, the name was changed back to San Salvador Island.
JOHN WATLING’S DISTILLERY is located on Delancy Street, within walking distance from the cruise ship port in Downtown Nassau and is easily accessible to both locals and visitors. To plan a visit, tourists should go to www.johnwatlings.com or call (242) 322-2811, or just show up. Tours are free and self-guided. Operating hours are 10am to 6pm seven days a week. For more information, photos, and news about John Watling’s Distillery, please “Like” the Facebook page at www.facebook.com/johnwatlings.
A Look at St. Lucia Distillers
We get a chance to visit St. Lucia for a look at the facility responsible for Chairman’s Reserve, Bounty and the Admiral Rodney line of rums. Enjoy!
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St. Lucia is popular with tourists for its beaches, luxury hotels and high end shopping, but we made our visit for another important reason, RUM. We boarded a bus bound for St. Lucia Distillers, makers of Chairman’s Reserve, Admiral Rodney, 1931 and several other premium sipping rums and liqueurs.
Our guide pointed out attractions and historic buildings as we navigated the busy streets of Castries city. The morning traffic finally gave way to the countryside as we continued over lush hills, past picturesque bays and finally arrived in Roseau Valley where the distillery is located.
As we stepped off the bus we immediately smelled the familiar sweet aroma that envelopes just about every distillery. We knew we were in the right place. Our tour quickly started with an overview of the facility, its history and the direction in which it is going.
Rum has been produced on this property for many years. Back when sugarcane was the big cash crop of St. Lucia, plantations dotted the island and all of them had private “house label” rums. This former plantation property is no exception, but it wasn’t until the early 1970s that the St. Lucia Distilling Group was formed. Back in those days they made one rum, Bounty, and it was sold exclusively on St. Lucia. The original brand is still a big player in the local rum guzzling community and is quite inexpensive and easy drinking.
The facility is smaller than some we’ve seen but produces a surprisingly high volume of rum. First, we walked through the fermentation area and zig zagged our way through a series of metal walkways and staircases that surround giant mash storage tanks. Beyond this area is the distillery with an impressive collection of pot and column stills. By using both, they are able to create very distinct and flavorful rums that are completely unique to each brand.
Beyond the main distilling room is the barreling and aging facility. There is a cooperage on site for making and repairing wooden aging barrels and it was fascinating to witness this nearly forgotten art form in action.
St. Lucia Disillers are making more than 20 rums and liqueurs at this facility and they are all run through stringent quality control measures. Our trip through the “rum lab” gave us a quick look at the precision of each formula and how new blends are brought to life through intense sessions of tasting, tweaking and development.
After our tour of the distillery we were invited to a tasting room to sample rums with Laurie Barnard, Managing Director of St. Lucia Distillers since 1972. We started with a flight of 6 different rums, three aged and three unaged. This gave us a look at how barrel time quickly changes the character of young rums and creates more depth and complexity.
Following this initial tasting, our group was set loose on a buffet of nearly every rum in the St. Lucia Distllers portfolio. The new 1931 aged sipper and Chairman’s Reserve Forgotten Casks were huge hits among our group and will surely be as popular once they make it to market.
As time at St. Lucia Distillers was coming to an end we had one last opportunity to sample even more rums and liqueurs at a pavilion tasting bar near their retail store. We all sipped away and stocked up on boxes of our new favorite St. Lucian rums. Our happy group finally boarded the bus and crept away from the property with hundreds of extra pounds of rum and a new knowledge and respect for the many great brands being produced here.
Cheers from St. Lucia.
A Look Inside St. Lucia Distillers
Take a look inside St. Lucia Distillers, home of Chairmans Reserve and other great rums.
Lonely Planet visits Rivers
Rory Goulding from the Lonely Planet network visits the legendary River Antoine Distillery in Grenada.
Travelocity Discovers Cruzan
Travelocity’s Courtney Scott visits St. Croix to learn how rum is made at the Cruzan Distillery.
A Look Inside WIRD
Take a look at the West Indies Rum Distillery on Barbados with our friends at Authentic Caribbean Rum.
Nat Geo visits Bundy
The National Geographic Channel’s hit show Mega Factories visits the legendary Bundaberg Rum Distillery.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=6loFnFTdnWg
Inside Clarke’s Court
Taking some good friends on a rum tour of Grenada this week. First stop, Clarke’s Court, makers of Old Grog and the brand new #37.
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Our research of Grenadian rum distilleries continued once again with a scenic drive along the island’s south coastal roads to a beautiful area known as Woodlands Valley, home to the most famous of the local rum producers, Clarke’s Court.
The distillery has been making rum since 1937 but the property has housed a sugar factory since the late 18th century. The amount of sugar cane grown on Grenada has dwindled over the years and sugar production is at an all time low. Fortunately, high grade molasses is easily accessible in the region and is an inexpensive core ingredient in local rums.
Our tour of Clarke’s Court, like other distilleries on the island, was like walking back in time. Antique tools and equipment filled the main distillery building and were still well maintained and fully functional. Even an ancient steam engine which once powered certain parts of the distillery was cranked up for our visit.
The facility is currently in expansion mode. A new 10,000 square foot building has been constructed and is being outfitted with a larger blending facility, bottling line, offices and storage.
Clarke’s Court products are distinct, often boasting sweet aromas and flavors of tropical fruits. Their Pure White Rum is a local favorite and is used as the high octane main ingredient in cocktails across the island. Old Grog has long been their top of the line offering and has an unmistakable banana note that makes it a delightful sipping rum. New to the lineup is #37, a really nice premium rum that pays homage to the founding of the company 75 years ago.
Beyond the expansion, there is more good news about Clarke’s Court. Their products continue to gain recognition and medals in spirits competitions around the world. Old Grog can now be found at liquor shops in Florida and there’s talk of a special blend being created for a well known American music star. Keep an eye out for Clarke’s products at a shop near you. This is definitely a brand you want to get to know.
Distillery Serralles
Happy Earth Day, everyone! Here’s a look at one of the world’s greenest rum producers, Distillery Serralles.
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by Mike Streeter
Along with six of my rum drinking friends, I pile into a shuttle that is bound for Ponce, a small town on the south side of Puerto Rico. Our driver weaves through the heavy rush hour traffic of San Juan which eventually gives way to the lush hills and mountains of the island’s rural interior. An hour later we are back on the coast in the town where the Serralles family has been in the sugar and rum business for nearly 200 years.
If you’re not familiar with the Serralles name, you might be surprised that Distillery Serralles is one of the largest in the Caribbean and has an annual output capacity of 15 million proof gallons. Their main brand, Don Q, is the most popular in Puerto Rico and is a huge source of pride for the local community.
When we arrive at the facility, we are greeted by Roberto Serralles, a 6th generation rum producer and our guide for the next few hours. As we walk through the facility he tells us about his family history and the tradition of local rum production. The first members of the family moved from Spain to Ponce in 1820 where they soon built a sugar plantation. They started to produce rum in 1865 and launched the Don Q brand in the early 1930’s.
The quality and local ownership of Don Q quickly made it the number one rum brand in Puerto Rico. In 1978, Don Q Cristal was launched and its light body and mixability made it an instant hit. To continue their ability to grow, Serralles has acquired other distilleries throughout Puerto Rico. Roberto joined the team in Ponce 8 years ago after completing his PhD in Environmental Science. His focus has been to push for expansion of their brand and facility with an eye on green technology.
The tech push is evident when Roberto shows us his new still; a five story, five column giant that remains under construction. It is state of the art and, once completed, will increase the distillery’s capacity and efficiency.
As tropical storm Emily nears Ponce, we head indoors where we have the opportunity to meet Master Blender, Sylvia Santiago and sample several of their rums. We talk about the future of the Don Q brand and how distribution and access in the US has increased over the last few years. Gran Anejo, their top-of-the-line aged rum, remains a big seller along with their traditional gold and white rums and complete line of flavors.
After a day with Roberto, our group is inspired by the rum distilling tradition of his family. As we leave, we know that we will continue to see very good things from Distillery Serralles. A special thank you goes out to everyone from the Serralles team for making this such a memorable trip. You’re the best!
Cheers!
Rhumerie du Simon
Our first stop in Martinique was Rhumerie du Simon, producers of some of the island’s finest agricole. Here’s a look inside.
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Soon after arriving in Martinique we were shuttled across the island, over rolling hills and finally to a stretch of sugarcane fields that led to the entrance of Rhumerie du Simon. This would be our first glimpse of local rhum agricole production and to say that anticipation was high would be an understatement.
As we entered the property and dodged giant trucks carrying cut sugarcane, we spotted the rest of the International Rum Council team along with our hosts, Jessica Marie of the Martinique Promotion Bureau and Ben Jones from Clement and Rhum JM.
Our tour began with a few details about the property. In operation since 1862, Le Simon produces some of the island’s finest agricole. They’ve become known as the most technologically advanced distillery on the island but maintain a strong connection to the time honored technique of making rhum. Today they supply two of Martinique’s most respected brands with product, Clement and HSE.
Like all distilleries in Martinique, rhum production at Le Simon starts with sugarcane, and lots of it. Transport trucks enter the property, are weighed and then dump giant loads of mostly machine cut cane. It is then fed into a crushing system that is far more sophisticated than any I’ve seen.
An initial pressing extracts much of the liquid, but the cane stalks are crushed again, watered down and crushed some more to ensure that every last drop of precious juice is released.
The leftover material is known as bagasse and resembles saw dust when the process is complete. It is burned in a nearby furnace and used to heat the large column stills on the property.
Once the liquid is extracted, Belgian baker’s yeast is added and the batch is allowed to ferment for 24 to 36 hours. There are 30 fermentation tanks on the property that are filled and drained every few days.
Le Simon uses 4 traditional column stills for distillation, two of which were moved to the property from other local distilleries that no longer produce rum. After distillation, the ABV is verified and the final product is tested for quality. It is then transported off site to Clement and HSE where it is aged, blended and bottled.
The production method at Rhumerie du Simon is very streamlined and efficient. Their team members are highly skilled and almost make the finely tuned process of making great rhum look easy. But with anything of quality, it’s all in the details.
While many fine spirits aficionados may not be aware of this distillery by name alone, they certainly know Clement XO, HSE Sherry Cask and many other fine products that come from here. So, next time your sipping a fine agricole with this lineage, be sure to remember the distillery where it was born – Rhumerie du Simon, Martinique!
Martinique on my Mind
Four wild days of touring Martinique’s distilleries and rhum shops leaves us with a whole new respect for agricole.
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The unforgettable scent of cane fields and barrel warehouses is still fresh in my mind. Ti Punch has become a staple in my diet and somehow my limited French has improved. Yes, a bit of Martinique has gotten into my soul.
Not even a week has gone by since returning from my whirlwind tour of the island and I’m already trying to figure out when I can go back to experience more. We were busy from dawn until late in the evening all four days and I feel like the local rhum scene still holds many secrets.
By day we toured Le Simon, Rhum JM, Depaz, Neisson, Saint James and La Favorite, six of the island’s most famous working distilleries. They were all extremely different from one another and gave us a glimpse at the precise method of making rhum agricole. The measures that local distilleries follow to meet stringent AOC regulations and to ensure the quality of their products is nothing short of amazing.
In the evening we were hosted at some of Martinique’s most outrageous restaurants and our conversation about everything agricole continued over feasts of steak and lobster. Back at the hotel we sipped Ti Punch and aged rhum late into the night and attempted to process all we’d seen.
I have been lucky enough to visit many rum producing islands over the years but I can’t remember the last time one effected me like Martinique. Rhum culture is thick on the island, almost like a religion. Everyone has a favorite brand, a special drink and a complete respect for local regulations of the distilling process.
Honestly, a journey to Martinique is a must for every rum aficionado. It was truly one of the best trips I’ve been on and has opened my eyes to new distilleries, brands and talented people.
We’ll be rolling out articles and images that highlight each individual distillery over the coming weeks so stay tuned.
A Look At River Antoine
We head up to St. Patrick Parish for a look at one of Grenada’s most interesting distilleries, River Antoine Estate.
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Grenada is an island with a rich history of distilling rum, moonshine and bush spirits. Of the three existing distilleries on the island, the most scenic, historic and unchanged in its 228 year history is River Antoine.
Located in the beautiful northern parish of St. Patrick, River Antoine has been making their legendary high proof Rivers Rum since 1785. Their age-old techniques and antique equipment have remained, making a tour of the facility like walking through a working rum museum.
River Antoine proudly makes their rum using locally grown, hand cut, organic sugar cane. The juice is extracted by crushing the stalks multiple times in a waterwheel-powered cane crusher. The steady rush of water that turns the wheel is diverted from a local river and depending on whether it’s rainy or dry season, is only allowed to flow for a few hours per day.
Once the cane is crushed, the spent stalks or “bagasse” is loaded onto a wooden hand cart and dumped onto giant mounds around the property where it is allowed to dry in the warm tropical sun. It is later used as a natural fertilizer in local agricultural fields, but mostly burned and used as the heating source in the distillery’s boiler house.
As the freshly pressed cane juice enters the boiler room it passes through a basic set of filtering screens before being deposited into a series of boiling cauldrons or “coppers.” The juice is hand ladled from the coolest cauldron to the hottest and becomes a thicker syrup in the process. This stage is strictly powered by gravity and manual labor and heated by burning bagasse.
From the boiler house, the cane syrup is transported next door to the fermentation room. It is pumped into large concrete vats where it is allowed to ferment naturally with the help of airborne yeasts for up to 10 days depending on the climate.
River Antoine uses two Vendome pot stills to produce their rum. They are both heated by burning locally cut hardwood and the temperature is skillfully controlled by the amount and type of wood used.
After distillation, the fresh rum is gravity fed to a neighboring room where its ABV is verified and the tax man keeps it under lock until proper documentation is made. It is bottled using a Rubbermade water cooler with a spigot, then hand sealed and labeled. The entire process is very green and almost unintentionally “artisan.”
River Antoine operates throughout the year and enjoys a very strong local following. Like regional beer snobs in the States and Europe, Grenadians often choose their rum brand based on where they live on the island. Rivers fans are so loyal, in fact, that the company is not able to export any rum – they just cant make enough. 100% is consumed by locals who proudly stick to one brand.
There is a popular adage in the north of Grenada, “DON’T SAY RUM, SAY RIVERS.” It’s pretty clear that in nearby taverns and rum shops, people are enthusiastically saying RIVERS over and over again.
*River Antoine Estate is easily accessible by cab, bus or car. They offer daily tours and have a wonderful restaurant and tasting bar for large groups. Be sure to pay them a visit.
Westerhall Estate
The Rum Bus arrives at Grenada’s Westerhall Estate for a walk through distilling history. Read on…
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On a hot, sunny Grenada morning, we piled into the Rum Bus and zig-zagged through the island’s lush south coastal roads. Our driver pointed out the fancy neighborhoods and famous rum shops of St. David Parish and 20 minutes later we arrived at Westerhall Estate, makers of the popular Jack Iron and Vintage Rums.
Westerhall Estate began making rum on this property in the 1700s when the plantation took up hundreds of acres in the coastal parish. Access to pure water and fresh cane juice made their products distinct from the beginning and they have always enjoyed a strong local following.
The distillery on the property has long been shut down and the equipment lays in ruin unmoved and untouched for decades. It is like walking through a rum museum and not difficult to imagine the intense energy the place must have had back in the day during full production.
Today, the Westerhall line of rums are originally sourced from Angostura Distillery in Trinidad. After transport to Grenada, it is aged, blended and bottled to the precise specifications of each individual offering.
Their premium rum, Westerhall Vintage, stands up nicely against many sippers from the region. Locally, Jack Iron and White Jack are top selling rums known for their strength and ability to mix well in cocktails. Their latest addition, 12 Degrees, is a super light white rum that makes no apologies for trying to infiltrate the vodka-drinkers market. It scored well in the CAB Tasting Competition and will surely continue to do well in the local and international market.
If you ever find yourself looking for a rum history lesson while in Grenada, be sure to pay our friends at Westerhall a visit. And since many of their products are now available in the US, pick up a few bottles and let us know what you think.
Cheers!
Inside Worthy Park Estate
The Rum Bus arrives at Worthy Park Estate and we get a look at the distillery behind Rum-Bar Overproof, Worthy Gold and Rum-Bar Rum Cream. Check it out.
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We finally made it to Worthy Park where we were greeted by Gordon Clarke, Director & Distillery Manager. He welcomed us to his office and we all gathered around a conference table and listened as he told us about the Estate’s interesting history.
This property, which sits in the center of the island at 1200 feet above sea level, has been the site of cane and sugar production for nearly 300 years. Since its founding, the property has only had three owners and the Estate has always been family run and operated. Their first recorded rum production was in 1741 when they made 3000 gallons.
Rum was big business until the years following World War II when it was being over produced in Jamaica and large surpluses devalued the stock. To curb the situation, several distilleries ceased operation in the 1950s under agreement with the Spirits Pool Association of Jamaica. Worthy Park was one of them.
In 2004, rum surplus was a thing of the past and Worthy Park decided to get back into the business. They constructed a new state-of-the-art distillery and full scale rum production began in 2005. The launch of their popular overproof Rum-Bar Rum soon followed.
The new distillery was designed to create a flavorful, traditional Jamaican pot still rum and fully utilize the latest production technologies. Efficiency and consistency have been made a priority at every point of production and the results are impressive.
Worthy Park is using a beautiful 18,000 liter custom copper pot still made for them by Forsyths in Rothes, Scotland. It can produce 4000 liters of rum per day and utilizes the same high tech features as the rest of the distillery. This is one of very few automated pot stills in the world and the entire distilling process is controlled and monitored by a touch screen device.
At the moment, the distillery is producing a large amount of rum and packaging it with a small bottling line. This is about to change. A new high tech setup is being installed within the year to keep up with demand, which is currently doubling annually.
The Estate’s aging facility is also about to increase in size. Their current warehouse is completely full and is being readied for an expansion that will double its square footage. If Worthy Gold is an indicator, their aged rums will be just as impressive as everything else they’ve launched.
After our distillery tour, Gordon invited us to his home for a rum tasting, lunch and continued conversation about Worthy Park. Having the opportunity to relax with new and old friends at a beautiful Jamaican plantation, sipping rum and talking shop was an experience that I will not soon forget. It was the perfect ending to an amazing day.
If you ever find yourself in St. Catherine Parish, Jamaica, be sure to find your way to Worthy Park Estate. Their high tech approach to making traditional pot still rum is inspiring and absolutely worth the long drive up the mountain. Distribution outside of Jamaica is on the rise, so be sure to look for Rum-Bar Rum at a liquor shop near you.
Next up on our Jamaican rum excursion is a look at Hampden Estate, home of the brand new Rum Fire Overproof. Stay tuned.
Boozy Belize
The investigation goes on…. Rum Connection is off to Belize this week for an outer-island drinking tour and closer look at the sweet rums of the region.
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BREAKING NEWS We leave bright and early in the morning for another week of rum research. This time around we’ll be touring the lovely Central American country of Belize where rum is a huge part of everyday life, backyard stills are commonplace and old family liquor recipes are closely guarded secrets.
The adventure starts when we arrive in Ambergris Caye, a tiny island 10 miles off the mainland coast. We’re staying on the edge of San Pedro Town at Casa de Mike One, an outpost owned by a cane-spirits loving local gringo who will serve as our guide for the week’s exploration. We’ll be spending our days searching the island’s coastline for the world famous beach bars and rum shops it has become known for. Palapa Bar, Ras Safari, Rojo Lounge, Mojito Bar and BC’s are all on the list.
The second part of the trip will feature excursions to the mainland to find out more about Travelers Distillery, makers of the popular One Barrel Rum, 5 Barrel Reserve and the 10 year Don Omario blend. After that we’ll head further inland to Cuello Distilling in Orange Walk, makers of a popular line of locally produced and locally consumed rums, spirits and potions.
Stay tuned for updates. This should be fun.
Sip History at Hampden Estate
The next stop in Jamaica brings us to Hampden Estate for a look at the distillery behind Rum Fire Overproof and a long line of heavy pot still rums.
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Last fall, at the rum festivals in Berlin and London, we had the pleasure of meeting the Hussey family, owners of Hampden Estate in Jamaica. They were launching their brand new Rum Fire Overproof Rum and several samples were poured as we talked about their distillery. The rum was amazing and we quickly bonded with our new friends, so when they invited us to pay them a visit in Jamaica, we had to accept.
Hampden Estate has a long history of sugar production and rum making in Jamaica. The property was originally surveyed back in 1743 and from 1779 rum was being sold out of the ground floor of the Estate’s Great House. Throughout the years they have become well-known for Heavy Pot Still rums and using generations-old techniques that have been passed down from family members and Master Distillers.
In 2003, the Jamaica Sugar Company took over operations and continued to produce the same traditional high ester rums for export to Europe. In 2009, the Hussey family bought the estate at auction from the Jamaican Government. The new owners have enthusiastically taken over with a goal of respecting and promoting the history of the property and continuing to pump out their unique style of rum.
The Estate sets in Queen of Spain Valley in Trelawny Parish on the island’s northwest side. Our journey from Montego Bay was uneventful and we arrived at the property after only an hour’s drive. As we slowly crept up the King Palm-lined driveway, the old sugar factory, distillery and Great House came into view and we were all amazed at the historical beauty of the Estate. We instantly knew that our visit was going to be something special.
The high ester Hampden rums are legendary in the cane spirits community and have a very distinct flavor profile. The ester content is attained in fermentation and our tour begins with a look at the unique methods employed in the very early stages of the process.
Unlike most distilleries, no commercial yeast is used during fermentation at Hampden. Instead, cultures are initially grown and regenerated in outdoor natural vats, then combined with the wash and stored in over 50 traditional cedar tanks within the distillery. It ferments for 7 days and is then left to settle for another 7, an eternity in the world of fermentation.
The wash is then transferred to one of four Forsyths copper pot stills and distilled using traditional methods. Hampden Estate makes a range of bulk rums which are used for creating unique blends for brands in the Caribbean, Europe and North America. Some of their highest ester rums are used in the food, perfume and flavoring industries.
The next stop on our tour was in the rum lab for a brief primer on consistency and quality control. After, we had a chance to taste rums with varying flavor profiles. Some were quite mild, but as the ester content increased, so did the character and intensity. Finally, we sampled Rum Fire, their new overproof rum which was recently released in Europe. It is surprisingly smooth, but at 126 proof, should definitely be respected. It’s already winning awards and is destined to be a huge hit worldwide.
After our tasting we take an opportunity to walk around the entire distillery property. Much of it is in the process of being restored and with plans for a visitors center, tours and a rum store, the future looks very bright.
We find that some of the beauty of this old property is in the ancient sugar factory structures that stand on the landscape like industrial pieces of sculpture. Many have been brilliantly repurposed for current and future use and our favorite was the koi pond fashioned from the foundation of the original sugar mill.
Our day ended on the porch of the Great House for a cold drink and conversation about what we can expect to see from Hampden Estate and Rum Fire in the coming years. This is an exciting project and the Hussey family will surely make a successful run at fully restoring this beautiful property. Distribution is expanding, so keep an eye out for their products around the world.
Special thanks go out to Christelle Harris and Angie Hussey-Harris for the wonderful tour of the property and to Mark Middleton and Paul Harris for all the technical talk. We look forward to seeing the continued rebirth and evolution of Hampden Estate and know that the production of your unique style of rum is in very good hands.
Cheers!!
In Search of Worthy Park
The first stop on our rum research trip in Jamaica was Worthy Park Estate. We had no idea how much of a thirst we’d work up just finding the place.
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As we all loaded onto the Rum Bus and looked at our map of Jamaica, we knew that our commute would be bumpy, hot, long, excruciating…..and totally worth it. Our destination was Worthy Park Estate, makers of Rum-Bar Rum, Worthy Gold and Rum-Bar Rum Cream. This distillery is making high-end Jamaican rum in a very modern, efficient way and we couldn’t wait to see it.
We left the friendly surroundings of Montego Bay and drove up into the stunning mountains of the island’s interior. Our driver, Kenny, assured us that the ride would be “no more than 3 or 4 hours on good roads” so we settled in for the trip.
Jamaica is a beautiful country and the first few hours of our journey were a real pleasure. But as the roads got worse and our driver got lost, the trip became less enjoyable. Several hours in, we stopped for a patty and bad coffee at a fast food joint and we all figured we were getting close. Wrong!
At hour number four, Kenny finally decided to call the distillery for directions. It was no surprise that we were nowhere near Worthy Park. We backtracked, stopped to ask for directions, called the distillery again and kept up a confusing path around central and southern Jamaica.
After another hour of driving up and down unmarked mountain roads and through countless rural villages, we spotted something that had to suggest that we were close to a distillery. A truck carrying a massive load of sugarcane slowly crept up the winding road in front of us and we insisted that Kenny follow it.
We rounded one last corner and the dense surrounding jungle opened up to give us an unobstructed view of a lush green valley called Lluidas Vale. In the distance, barely detectable on the horizon, was Worthy Park Estate.
A few miles later, the Rum Bus screeched to a stop and we all jumped out to stretch our legs and breath in the fresh, molasses-charged mountain air. The surroundings were beautiful. Endless fields of sugarcane rolled across the valley floor and lush green mountains provided a beautiful backdrop under the sunny sky. This would be an idyllic location for a luxury resort, not to mention a sugar factory and distillery.
We were all relieved that we had finally reached Worthy Park and hoped that there would soon be sweet rum to sample. Hell, a six hour van ride would drive just about anyone to drink.
Tune in tomorrow as we get a look inside the distillery at Worthy Park Estate and have a chance to try their line of rums.
Cheers!
St. Nicholas Abbey
While on Barbados, we pay a visit to St. Nicholas Abbey where our entire crew is won over with a dose of history, tradition and an unbeatable small batch rum.
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After our wonderful tour of Foursquare Distillery, it was time to head north along the gorgeous and unspoiled east coast of Barbados, past the many popular surf spots and rural towns, all the way to St. Nicholas Abbey. Perched in the soaring hills of St. Peter, this property was built in 1658 and has remained unchanged for more than 350 years. It is only one of three Jacobean mansions remaining in the Western Hemisphere and has been lovingly restored by owner/architect/distiller, Larry Warren.
Now, a property as beautiful as St. Nicholas Abbey is worth a visit just to check out the architecture and learn about its history, but it just so happens that this historic plantation has an added draw that seriously caught our attention – a small rum distillery!
The Abbey is situated in the middle of hundreds of acres of sugarcane, so after several years of making and selling artisan food products on site, they decided to put the cane to good use and get into the rum business.
Their first bottling hit the local and European markets several years ago and was produced exclusively for the plantation by Richard Seale. It was aged in oak casks at 65% abv for 8 years, batched and re-barreled at 40% abv and then aged for another 2 years at the Abbey. It’s a truly wonderful rum.
Last year they finished construction and assembly of their very own on-site micro-distillery complete with a beautiful Arnold Holstein still that came directly from Germany. Their signature rum is being produced with their own cane juice and aged, blended and bottled in the same traditional manner that has been used on the island for hundreds of years. We had a taste of some of the very first samples to come off the still and this rum is going to be a huge hit.
Like most things at St. Nicholas Abbey, packaging is done by hand and with extreme care. Rum is poured straight from the barrel into a one-of-a-kind bottle with an etched image of the Abbey proudly displayed on the side. Bottles are topped with a mahogany cork and each is numbered and dated. If you’re lucky enough to purchase one on site, they will happily etch a message of your choice onto it at no extra charge. Ours reads “Bottled especially for Rum Connection” and is among the most prized pieces in our collection.
Our tour of St. Nicholas Abbey was completely inspiring. The grounds are park-like, serene and maintained to perfection and the Abbey is a charming example of an architectural style and craftsmanship from era long gone. Most importantly, the distillery is beautifully designed, almost sculptural in quality, and is pumping out small batches of amazing rum. Everything here is done with the highest attention to detail and we applaud the Warren family for creating a wonderful island attraction as well as presenting a lovely artisan rum to the marketplace.
Next time you find yourself in beautiful Barbados, be sure to make your way to St. Nicholas Abbey for a look at history, tradition and a sip of genuinely wonderful Bajan rum.
Stay tuned for more coverage from Barbados. Next up, a look at the island’s legendary rum shop culture. Cheers!
Foursquare Distillery
The first stop on the Rum Cruise was Barbados for a dizzying tour of the island’s distilleries, liquor stores and rum shops. Up first, Foursquare Distillery.
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The Rum Cruise departs from Puerto Rico and after two very rummy nights and a full day at sea we arrive in Barbados. This is our first stop, and with four world class distilleries, the perfect island to start our adventure.
Our group leaves the cruise ship dock and winds through the morning traffic of Bridgetown aboard a fancy tourist bus. We travel south along the island’s beautiful coast and east past the airport and into St. Philips. The first stop on this leg of the trip is one of my favorites, Foursquare Distillery-makers of RL Seale, Rum Sixty Six, Old Brigand, John Taylor’s Velvet Falernum and the fabulous Doorly’s XO among many others.
Foursquare is located on the site of an old plantation that dates back to the early 1600s and the main driveway leads us through a field of sugarcane into the grounds of the facility. Nearly 10 acres have been transformed into a beautifully landscaped property complete with gardens, a petting zoo, an amphitheater, small museums and, of course, a cutting edge rum distillery.
On most days, the tour is self-guided and visitors are free to wander the grounds and plant. Details about Foursquare’s history and unique rum making process are highlighted on large placards throughout the distillery and you can take your time enjoying the sights and smells of rum creation. Fortunately, on the day of our visit, Richard Seale was on site to give us a guided tour of this amazing place. It’s nice to get the scoop directly from the man who makes the rum and runs the company.
Of all the distilleries I’ve been to, Foursquare is one of the cleanest, most orderly and their commitment to protecting the environment among the most impressive. Green technology has been utilized in every step of rum making and the measurable results are outstanding.
Richard explains how carbon dioxide created during fermentation is captured and then sold to a local gas company. Heat is also monitored and minimized during distillation and waste water is fully treated on site. This impressive undertaking to reduce their impact is unmatched and will hopefully be copied by others in the industry with less-stellar environmental records.
Foursquare’s line of fine rums are some of the most sought after among fine spirits enthusiasts, but what some people may not know is that they also do quite a large business creating rums for other brands. Tommy Bahama white and gold rums were created and bottled here, so was the London club-brand Mahiki. They are both great examples of Foursquare’s ability to create, bottle and deliver great rums to the specification of boutique brands. Hopefully, we will see more of this trend in the future.
At the end of our tour, we were escorted into a meeting room near the bottling plant and given the rundown on Foursquare’s impressive line of rums. We had the opportunity to taste them all and each of us had our own favorite by the end of this cheerful session. Of course, Richard Seale was on hand to answer our questions and give us a few hints about new brands that could soon be hitting the market.
I’ve had the opportunity to visit Foursquare on a few different occasions and am more impressed each time. Their commitment to the history of the property, the people of Barbados and to the environment is in a class of its own, not to mention their ability to consistently crank out world-class rums. As the Rum Bus leaves their beautiful property, our group of newly initiated fans determine that Foursquare has definitely chosen the right motto. When it comes to rum, they “Do it right!“
Stay tuned for more distillery touring and rum drinking adventures in Barbados. Cheers!
The Original Micro-Distillery
Our research trip to the Virgin Islands continues with a jaunt to Cane Garden Bay, Tortola and a tour of Callwood Distillery, the oldest distillery in the region. Enjoy.
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Cane Garden Bay is one of those idyllic little bodies of water in the Caribbean. The lush green hills of Tortola roll steeply from the turquoise waters below and give way to bright blue sky above. The beach is a perfect crescent and dotted with colorful shacks that sell stiff rum drinks, Caribbean beers and rent beach chairs. On either end of this stretch are a few decent beach bars and the setting is laid back 365 days a year.
We slowly approach the anchorage at Cane Garden in the Naughty Nymph, the boat that has been our rum research vessel for the last week. We’re not here for the beach, though it makes a beautiful backdrop. We’re here to visit Callwood Distillery, the oldest facility of its kind in the region.
The weather is a bit breezy today and our captain, Bahama Bob, waves us off and decides to stay with the Naughty Nymph in these unsettled waters. We pack our gear and cameras into my bright yellow dry bag and jump in for the quick swim to shore. We hit the beach and walk parallel to the water’s edge for a hundred yards, duck between a few houses out to the main road through town and take a left at the Callwood sign. We’re there….. wait, are we? Callwood is an OLD distillery and doesn’t look like much on approach, but is indeed cranking out Arundel Rum the old fashioned way and is a must-visit spot for anyone traveling through the area.
There were once over twenty rum distilleries in the British Virgin Islands, but now there is just one. This property was constructed more than 400 years ago and has been in the Callwood family since the 1800s. The old stone buildings that house the distillery have seen better days, but the ruin-like motif adds a lot to the feel of this weird little place. The Callwoods have been distilling rum on this property for more than 200 years and it shows.
We enter a dark doorway of the main distillery and immediately smell the sweet aroma of rum. Aging barrels are stacked around the small room and racks of shelves hold several demijohns, blown glass containers that hold unaged rum.
We meet Curvan, the gentleman who makes the rum, gives distillery tours and runs the tasting bar. He tells us about their simple and traditional method of making rum. They use local pressed cane juice that is boiled, settled and naturally fermented without yeast. The “wash” or “wine” is then distilled in an ancient pot still and barreled for a minimum of four years before it is ready for bottling.
Curvan pours samples of their line of rums and we immediately become fans of this old place. Their white unaged rum is surprisingly smooth and I imagine would be great for mixing cocktails, but the 10 year Cane Rum really stands out. He is generous with the samples and we joyfully buy a couple of bottles for the boat ride back to St. Thomas.
We bid farewell to our new friend and make the quick walk back to the beach at Cane Garden Bay. The Naughty Nymph crew is anchored out and wave to us as we pack the dry bag and ready for the swim back to the rum research vessel. It’s only 10:30am, we’ve sampled 5 different rums at an ancient distillery (one of them several times) and the whole day is ahead of us. We take one last sip of Arundel 10 year and all agree that life in the BVIs is treating us very well. Cheers!
Stay tuned for more island rum action…